Drawing on the author’s journals and experiences over 50 years, it reveals startling complexities to an activity so often associated with beach culture. So what happens between the ocean and the land that escapes on the page? Why is an activity that is so beautiful and popular also so indescribable?īarbarian Days: A Surfing Life, William Finnegan’s memoir of his lifelong relationship to catching waves, is the extraordinary answer to this question. Beach Boys songs aside, these are the reasons, if you live in the state, people back East ask: Do you surf? Duck into a bookshop, though, and you’ll be hard-pressed to find literature as spectacular as the lore. Mavericks and the gnarly waves at Half Moon Bay. There are 840 miles of coastline in California, some of which you can surf.
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